The Shopping Experience

To those who have been to a "western" grocery store in China, you will empathize with my story:

Today I ran downstairs to a small grocery located in our office complex - City Super, whose name was recently changed from City Supermarket after an unpleasant trademark lawsuit brought by a Hong Kong grocer - to grab a bite to eat. I approached the checkout counter with four items, three of which were beverages.

Note that you receive ZERO assistance from the folks working there. The store has four aisles, a small bakery and a small alcove for meats, cheeses and dog food. But the people working there speak no English and have no idea what they sell. You are ultimately tasked with finding it yourself, and placement often seems random.

I scanned the four open checkout counters to see if anyone in line looked like they might use a credit card. Credit cards are the kiss of death in China because they require at least two store employees to complete the transaction making an already painful process even more arduous.

I lucked out. The outside lane had three people, one of whom was completing the transaction with cash and two of whom had under three items each. The minutes ticked by and I approached the counter. With four items. The checker greeted me politely and then scanned the first item and set it to the side. He then scanned the second item and set it to the side. Then the third item . . . . and then the fourth item . . . . There is absolutely no sense of urgency. Take all the time you need. The slower the better.

After an eternity, he was ready to start putting things in the bag. He reached down to get the bag . . . . then slowly lifted the first item in the bag. Then slowly went for the second and placed it in the bag. Then on to the third. . . . then the fourth. . . . Time to pay!!!

You always want to pay with exact change if possible - all checkers will stop the transaction to ask if you have the correct change - and in any case, avoid using a 100 yuan bill (the equivalent of around US $12). Having no small change, I pulled out a RMB 100. After promising I had nothing smaller, we began the usual examination process. Hold the RMB 100 note up to the light to examine it carefully for signs of counterfeit. Then slowly turn it over and examine the other side. It's good. Now for change.

He has to do the calculation in his head. This takes time. He opens the cash drawer and stares at the contents for a few seconds slowly deciding how much to return to me. Finally, transaction complete.

If you are raised on Wal-Mart, Alberson's, Kroger, Schnucks, whatever, this process makes you nuts. It is time intensive for absolutely no reason other than no one has suggested to the staff that speed is a factor in customer service. It is much worse in larger markets like Wal-Mart or Carrefour because people have many items and lines are much longer. Best to bring a book along to keep your mind occuppied.

As expats prepare to enter life in their homelands again, these aspects of China become intolerable. I still have a few months to go on my contract and am therefore not as prone to outbursts as others, but I'm sure it is coming.

A friend and colleague of mine from Beijing is preparing to return to his native Canada. I asked him why he thought it was time to go home. He said, "Because I don't want to become one of those grumpy old men who sits around at the bar complaining about China, and I'm headed in that direction." I understand.